Tall tales and true: of Yorkshire moors and the byways of Surrey: The church that John built

Beavers used to live happily in Yorkshire. The town of Beverley is named after them. But, they were hunted to extinction for their fur in the early days, so disappeared from the landscape around the 1600s, until recently, when a couple were introduced back into the forest close by, to see if they would build natural dams to mitigate flooding problems. That research is still ongoing. But the pair have clearly been happy here as they have produced a couple of kits, and their family appears to be thriving.

As did the town of Beverley when we visited. This place was around when the early beavers still lived in Yorkshire. There was a small church here, too, since before the early 700s, though that, it is thought now, might later have been sacked by Vikings marauders, during one of their raids along this stretch of coast hunting down altar jewelry and gilded treasure. The person who made the Beverley church famous was a local fellow, John, born just up the road a short distance, in Harpham. John was the son of local well-to-do noble. He went to school, amazingly, in Canterbury. Way down in Kent. So, rather like the modern day students we visited the other day at Ampleforth College, John would regularly have made his way south, then home again, during his scholastic years. Though, it likely took him a little longer coming and going in the 700s than it takes the Ampleforth boarders these today.

John became a religious. His devotion was renowned and he quickly became the Bishop of York. He was much loved and revered for his holiness and his compassion, and became especially famous when he blessed a young mute boy with the sign of the cross, who soon found himself able to speak with John's help. Many such efforts made his work exhausting, so he often needed to find a place of seclusion and retreat, and on one such trip found a quiet spot filled with woods and water and a tiny church for contemplation. Over time, that wee church, under John's auspices, grew to be the Beverley Minster, and young monasterians from all over soon flocked to hear the lessons of John of Beverley.

The church has been rebuilt and renovated over the centuries since, but it is one of the most beautiful gothic churches in all of England. Frequently used as a film set. Not long ago for the excellent Victoria television series. It is rich in history and tradition. Canopy arches drip stone decoration venerating noble families. Tombs are solid in stone, marble and brass. Glass, high in arched windows, are of exquisite Medieval glasswork. The ancient 16th century quire stalls each have uniquely carved misericord seats and are masterpieces in wood.

When John died he was buried in the Beverley Minster. His tomb has been moved a few times as renovations have gone on, but today it holds a special place at the heart of the church. Since the Middle Ages Beverley Minster has became a place of special pilgrimage and veneration, and even today, the church was busy with travellers and volunteers, there, like St John, to assist wherever possible. A classical pianist and soprano were offering a special recital while we wandered the aisles. It was all quite beautiful and uplifting.

The town, too, is a pleasant place to wander with its winding historic heart wearing so many remnant features of its early life such as the Butcher's Row, where the meat used to be sold or the roads into town converging towards the Minster, so the closer market sellers came to the city, they were barred, not by city walls but by Gates, or Bars, where tolls were collected: North Bar, Keldgate, and so on. The town outside North Bar was called North Bar Without. But once you passed through the gate it became North Bar Within. We wandered across a likely spot for the toll collection called Toll Gavel, and smiled. It wasn't too far fetched to imagine friars and market merchants mingling in these narrow spaces.